Woodworking plans are a dime a dozen, but finding the ones that provide step-by-step instructions, use easily available tools and materials, and work for beginners and passionate DIY-ers can be tricky. Read on as we review some of the best woodworking project plans of the year, including the best parts, their downsides, and who they’re good for.
1. Teds Woodworking Review
Once you sign up for a membership with Teds Woodworking, you can access a range of projects and their step-by-step plans with written instructions. Once you find a project you like, you can even print the plans in case you want to make notes or cross-examine them as you work.
The platform gives you access to 16,000 different plans, which offers great value for money. Note that of these, a rare few may not be as detailed as you’d like, but you still have a pretty vast library to choose from. Most of these plans are fairly easy to follow, and even those that aren’t too detailed can be worked on with a little extra time and effort.
Ted’s Woodworking offers a number of projects ranging from simple ones that are suitable for beginners to those that larger and more complex and are meant for advanced builders, so there’s something for everyone. Even if you’re confused about what project to start, you’ll find inspiration from the number of options in front of you.
Apart from that, the platform is very well organized, and you can find whatever you’re looking for quite easily. The majority of the plans on this website maintain good quality and are fairly detailed.
Overall, Teds Woodworking is a solid website for woodworkers of all levels, from beginner to pro.
2. Woodworkers Treasure Chest Review
Woodworkers Treasure Chest offers a range of activities, like selecting woodworking plans, materials, helping you prepare for a project, and what finishing your final piece will require. With thousands of plans complete with step-by-step instructions, this site is designed for beginners and novices who want to craft something of their own. You’ll also be able to view your plans in 3D to get a clearer idea of what you need to do and what your project should look like in the end.
A standout feature of this platform is the Woodworkers Project Wizard that automatically links you to the logical next step when you’re working on any project. It also has a built-in calculator to help you with measurements and conversions. They also have a range of video tutorials that are actually helpful.
Treasure Chest also helps you handle small repairs at home on your own. Signing up for it also gives you access to a private Facebook group where you can connect with other woodworkers like yourself, clear up any confusion, and get inspired.
In addition, the platform has a 60-day money-back policy in case you can’t figure your way around the plans.
Given the ease of use and plans that cover printable visuals, videos, and offer a forum of like-minded people, there aren’t any apparent downsides to Woodworkers Treasure Chest.
3. Max’s Woodworking Review
Max’s Woodworking offers incredible plans that would generally be worth millions but are available to members for a minimal fee. The creator, Max Millard, has created an online library of 16,000 woodworking plans as well as an eBook filled with more challenging designs for the advanced users. You can start out with building a basic shelf to steady your hand and manage your way with all the tools and the wood and end up making your own rocking chair if you follow Max’s designs.
The detailed instructions provided with each plan will help you make your final product resilient and beautiful. The site also has a 60-day money-back guarantee just in case you change your mind after signing up.
Max’s Woodworking caters to everyone, including those who are not very tech-savvy. His book is available in a hardcopy for those who like to make notes and carry the plans around to study and prepare for them in advance.
There aren’t really downsides apart from the fact that the plans can get a little too detail-oriented at times – even so, this is meant to ensure that you can’t go wrong with Max’s Woodworking Plans.
4. Ryan’s Shed Plans Review
Ryan’s Shed Plans offers a library of 12,000 shed plans, and while they’re not of the same quality and standard as the others on our list, they do have some solid projects. Despite the variety of options, there are only a few plans that are actually clear and detailed enough for you to work on.
The platform is relatively easy to navigate through with different shed projects separated into different ZIP folders. Even if you don’t know what you want your shed to look like, you’re bound to find some good ideas through this website.
Many of the plans have text that is very difficult to read, even when you zoom into them.
That being said, overall, Ryan’s Shed Plans are quite affordable, and it’s a good idea to sign up if you’re looking for some inspiration on making the perfect shed that is both functional and attractive.
If you’re truly interested in Woodworking, whether you want to build a simple shed or an elaborate chair, it’s important to access the right platforms where you will not only get viable designs, but you’ll also be provided with detailed and easy to understand instructions so that you end up with something that looks great and is also usable.
Power tools are in rage these days but as any seasoned DIY expert will tell you, good ole fashioned woodworking hand tools will always have a niche that cannot be replaced. Whether for repairs or for any personal project, having the proper woodworking tools in your arsenal is a must to make the job easier and help you achieve better results.
However, with so many options on the market right now, it can be difficult to find ones that are the best of the best. Fortunately, we’ve saved you the time by doing the research for you. Below are the 6 best hand woodworking tools we could find, their pros and cons as well as some final remarks.
Top 6 Woodworking Tools 2021
1. Estwing Framing Hammer
The humble hammer is the simplest but also the most versatile DIY woodworking tools out there. If you are shopping for one that does its job perfectly and is as sturdy as a hammer can get, the Estwing Framing Hammer is the one to purchase.
Forged as one solid piece of tempered steel, the hammer is super durable and can easily tackle a heavy beating without even a scratch. Featuring an excellent weight distribution and balance, striking with the hammer delivers powerful blows without taxing the wielder. It weighs just 16 oz but punches way above its weight.
Thanks to its superb patented nylon-vinyl grip, the hammer is comfortable to hold and manages to reduce vibrations by nearly 70%. Furthermore, the grip is molded and bonded to the hammer piece, meaning that it will never come apart, no matter how many times you use the hammer.
Featuring a rip claw, you can utilize it for not just pulling nails but also for many other applications such as spilling wood, demolition work and prying boards. The hammer is available for buyers in both milled and smooth face options.
The company behind the hammer has been making woodworking hand tools for nearly a century and they showcase this legacy and experience in every tool they manufacture. All their products are 100% American made. Purchasing this hammer, you won’t be disappointed by its quality or performance.
- Highly durable
- Comfortable grip
- High performance
- Good balance
- Great value for money
- Made in the US
- The long handle may feel overbalanced for a few people
Quality-wise you won’t find a better hammer on the market for the price range. Durable, high performing and excellently, Estwing’s is easily the king of hammers and there is no arguing about that.
2. Crown 4-1/2-inch Mallet
In woodworking and carpentry, sometimes you need woodworking tools that land a softer and more controlled blow, such as when driving a chisel or knocking wooden pieces together. A hammer just doesn’t cut it as there is always the risk of a strike being too powerful and damaging the wood. Instead, a craftsman utilizes a mallet.
Hailing from the United Kingdom, the Crown 4-1/2-inch is one of the best performing mallets we have come across. The tool features exceptional balance and lands powerful yet controlled blows easily. The mallet is also surprisingly quiet to work and carries good feedback. The mallet is comfortable to hold and work with – right out of the box it will feel like it was meant for your hands.
The mallet is composed of beech, a wood that is well-known for its hardness and toughness, even surpassing that of oak. However, beech can be vulnerable to moisture which impacts its durability. Hence, leaving the mallet out for days outside in moisture heavy conditions may not be recommended.
As a dried wooden mallet, it would require oiling. This helps improve its weight and provides better resistance against moisture. This mallet absorbs the oil hungrily. Just after 2-3 coats, it is ready for use as a hand tool for woodworking.
- High performance
- Great value for money
- Not suitable for prolonged use in moisture
It’s a solid tool and feels great to use. Whether as a beginner woodworking tool or as an upgrade for the seasoned professional, you can’t go wrong with this purchase.
3. VonHaus 10 Piece Premium Chisel
For curving or cutting wood, the chisel is the ‘paintbrush’ of the wood craftsman. The quality of the chisel a person has can make all the difference when it comes to woodworking. Using a bad chisel set can work up plenty of frustration and leave you will terrible results.
A high-end chisel set can be a valuable investment and if you are in the market for one, we recommend VonHaus Premium Chisel. The chisel set contains split proof 10 pieces (from ¼’ to 2’), a Robert Larson honing guide and sharpening stone.
Made from heat-treated chrome vanadium steel alloy, the chisel blades possess extraordinary durability and strength. Even after many repeated uses, the metal is likely to retain its edge. The overall quality is extraordinary given the price and these chisels are guaranteed to last a lifetime with proper use.
Featuring rubberized ergonomic grips, the chisel is very comfortable to hold and work with. For easier sticking and effective transfer from force from the mallet into the chisel, all pieces also feature a uniform concave metal striking cap.
The sharpening stone the chisel comes with is made of aluminum oxide and features 120/200 grit. The stone wasn’t exactly the best we have come across but was good enough to get a decent job done. For better results, you may want to get yourself a more high-end 400/1000 grit sharpening stone.
The VonHaus set comes in a terrific wooden storage box, which is also a big plus in our opinion. Though some may find the design to be badly molded and thus, make it not easy to quickly take out the tools when need requires. So overall, the feedback on the box is mixed.
Do note that the chisels will need sharpening before you can start using them. This is especially the case for the larger head, which may need a fair amount of grinding and polishing.
While the honing guide offers excellent and easy to understand instruction, the fact that they need to be worked on and can’t be used straight out of the box don’t make them the most ideal of beginner woodworking tools. The chisel set is also available in 6 pieces (½’ to 1 ¼’) and 8 pieces (¼’ to 1 ½’) as well.
- Highly durable
- Split proof
- Ergonomically designed
- The set comes with a sharpening stone and a honing guide
- Great value for money
- Needs to be sharpened on arrival
No matter how intricate or demanding the task, this set from VonHaus will deliver. At the price it is on offer, the set delivers tremendous value. If you don’t mind a little elbow grease, these are a must buy.
4. Olson Saw SF63510 (Woodworking Hand Saw)
For cutting wood into intricate shapes or for interior cutouts, the woodworking craftsman requires the use of a coping saw. Sturdy, durable and offered at an unbeatable great price, Olson Saw SF63510 is definitely an option to consider for a purchase.
The saw quality is second to none for its price range. Buying this woodworking hand saw, you can be assured that its blade is unlikely to break easily, even after years of heavy usage.
Furthermore, the blade can also be rotated 360-degree for added versatility and the saw washers hold the tension within the blade quite nicely. No matter the type of wood, its saw blade will run through it like a knife through butter.
As for any drawbacks, its hardwood handle isn’t the easiest or the most comfortable to grip and we wish the company could have done more homework on its design. However, this is the only quip we have with this woodworking hard tool.
- Very sturdy
- 360-turning blade
- Tremendous value for money
- Not the most comfortable grip handle
Easily the best ‘regular’ coping best hand saw for woodworking on the market, this is a premium quality tool that’s tough to beat in both price and sawing performance.
5. Stanley 12-220 Block Plane
Block planes are a great tool to have when dealing with grain ends and doing touchups to your woodworks. If you are interested in buying a block plane for your DIY, consider the one on offer by Stanley.
Stanley is a well-known name when it comes to hand tools for woodworking. The brand is known for the quality and performance of its products and Stanley 12-220 Block Plane proves to be no exception to this.
The cutter is fully adjustable and rest on the block plane at a 21° angle, making it perfect when it comes to cross-grain planing. The block plane is attractively priced. However, part of the reason for it is that the company intentionally left out some of the finishing steps during manufacture.
This isn’t a tool that you may be able to use straight out of the packaging. Its blade would need sharpening, the sole will need flattening, etc. However, once the required modifications are made, this block plane certainly delivers. Overall, this can be a great little tool that is easy to set up and work with, it just requires a bit of elbow grease to truly shine.
The tool also comes with a limited life-time warranty from the Stanley so if there are any defects or deficiencies in the workmanship, you can have it repaired or replaced.
If budget isn’t a constrain and you are after a more premium block plane for woodworking use, then we recommend the Stanley Bailey No.60-1/2 Low Angle Block Plane as an alternative.
- Fully adjustable cutter
- Easy to use and set-up
- Limited life-time warranty
- Great value for money
- May require some modification before first-time use
With its highly affordable price considered, this is a great starter plane overall. It may need some work done at the start but once you are past that, this is a tool that will serve you well for years to come.
6. Komelon SM5425 Speed Mark Gripper
No woodworking hand tool set is ever complete with a reliable tape measure. This excellent one from Komelon is our top recommendation. Its well-designed end hook attaches firmly with no give, helping you take accurate measurements on large scale projects.
The non-glare tape length is an ideal 25 feet, more than enough for most projects but not long enough that you start having issues with getting it to roll back up. The tape measure features an ergonomic compact design, offering an easy and comfortable grip. The gripper on the tape prevents it from rolling back in while you take your measurements.
Our only criticism of it is that the retraction function leaves a bit to be desired. It is difficult to trigger with one hand and refraction feels inconsistent.
- Ideal length
- Great value for money
- Ergonomic design
- Firm and accurate measurements
- Mediocre refraction function
Overall, a great purchase with tremendous value. For quick and easy measurements, this is the tape measure you want to have.
In writing our description of the products, we have tried to be as accurate as possible so to not give our dear viewers a dishonest review. Regardless of which of the above mentioned tools you choose to buy, we can guarantee that you won’t be disappointed with the purchase. We hope you found our article to be informative and our list of recommendation to be worthwhile. Share it with others in your circle who may also find its content helpful.
Need for drying a Wood
Get two planks of green wood, very moist, one in fir, the other in oak, and place them in an un-ventilated place. After a while, you will notice traces of heating
You therefore conclude that drying of the wood is necessary, whether it is soft or hard wood, and THAT THIS DRYING MUST BE RELATIVELY FAST.
Naturally, drying must take place BEFORE USE. Green wood from a recently felled log cannot be used; you understand that a work executed in green wood would not take long, as it dries, to deform, to warp.
Consequences of drying of Wood
The main consequence of drying is, as you already know, a MORE OR LESS IMPORTANT REMOVAL that the wood undergoes.
But it must be taken into account that A DRY WOOD CAN MOISTURE AGAIN, this humidification resulting in a SWELLING which can cause significant deformations.
As drying and swelling are irregular depending on the position in the tree of the flow considered, the degree of drying of a wood is therefore extremely important to know before use.
For example, for certain structural works: carpentry, shed, unpainted exterior carpentry, wood that has lost only part of its moisture is used. These woods are said to be only wiped; they give the touch of an impression of dryness.
In carpentry, semi-dry wood is also used for the openings: crossed, exterior beads.
Indeed, a window is exposed to the weather; if the wood is very dry, it will swell a lot and the window cannot be opened; if, on the contrary, the wood still contains water, it will swell less since, at a certain moment, it will no longer absorb the water and the clearance provided for the opening will be sufficient for the proper functioning of the structure . It is to curb this entry of moisture into the wood used that the works are covered with a protective coating, paint or varnish.
Note, however, that never re-wetted wood returns to its original dimensions: it takes smaller dimensions if it is re-wetted to the same degree of humidity.
Principles of drying
Have you wondered how moisture is evacuated? What were the different operations and the duration of drying?
Take again two green wooden boards, one in oak, the other in fir. Expose them to a fire. You will see that the boards have deformed:
- that in oak has cracks: the drying was too fast; heat, having absorbed surface moisture quickly, caused abrupt removal of surface tissue while the internal tissues did not vary in size,
- that in fir, more tender, therefore more porous, allowed the water to evacuate more easily and the withdrawal was carried out without risk of chapping.
It can therefore be said that HARDWOODS MUST DRY SLOWLY THAN SOFTWOOD.
Remember, moreover, that a soft wood generally contains less water before drying than a wood hard.
It should be noted however that the result would not have been the same if the surrounding air, very hot, had been also very humid. This is taken advantage of in the case of accelerated drying and in the manufacture of plywood. We will come back to it.
In practice, a wood is considered AIR DRY when it still contains a certain amount of water, when its MOISTURE RATE is around 15% of the weight that wood would have if it were completely without water.
Moreover, this moisture content of the wood is balanced with that of the surrounding air, generally more wet in winter than in summer.
Two drying methods are used:
- natural or slow drying,
- artificial or accelerated drying.
What is natural drying?
Natural drying is the evaporation of moisture by exposing the wood to the open air. It is slow because we generally admits one year per centimetre of thickness; so, for a board of 4 centimetres the drying would require 4 years, this rate can however be accelerated by rational stacking.
The moisture content of naturally dried dry wood, called AIR DRY, varies from 13 to 17%. He's never less than 13%, which is not enough for certain works.
What is artificial or accelerated drying?
Artificial drying allows moisture to be removed from the wood faster and more completely than by exposure to air. Currently, artificial drying is commonly used, to obtain wood having a degree humidity lower than the state of air dry wood, for example for certain works intended for very that require very dry wood to avoid warping.
Very dry wood has a humidity level of only 7 to 8%. But beware: placed in a workshop whose air is normally humidified it gradually absorbs moisture until balance is achieved by depending on the humidity level of the workshop. We must therefore hurry to implement it to avoid it regain its humidity.
Once used, this wood must be protected by a varnish; a cabinet table would be damaged if put for a long time in damp or unheated rooms. Thus, also thanks to bonding, its humidity not exceed 10% and there will be no deformation due to swelling.
Different processes are used for accelerated drying. We will study them in detail in a next lesson.
Slow or accelerated drying, which should we prefer?
The behavior of a wood depends on how it was dried.
Both dryings have their pros and cons; however, the former can be practiced by all craftsmen, while the second requires a large and expensive installation.
We will see in the following lessons how to conduct the drying of the different species and we will indicate the disadvantages and advantages of each method.
The degree of drying of the wood used must be given to the degree of humidity of the environment in which stay the work done: dry wood in a dry environment (interior); wood wiped outside.
Wood is said to be AIR DRY when its humidity is balanced with that of the air around it.
You saw in our last lesson that wood drying is done by two methods.
Let's study the oldest: natural drying.
How to conduct this drying
When you exposed your oak plank to blazing fire, cracking occurred; if you expose boards in the sun, you will get the same result. There will be a loss of wood in the flow as a result deterioration and disposal of a certain amount of material.
Should we then stack the boards on top of each other to slow drying?
You have already seen drying hay that you want to keep for the winter: we are starting to spread it in the open air so that it loses its humidity, then it is brought in when it is very dry; if it was brought in wet, it would heat up and mold. It is the same for wood: if we did not take the same precautions, it would heat up.
These two examples clearly show that the drying of wood must be carried out with caution.
What are the different operations?
The NATURE OF THE WOOD (hard or soft) and the DEBIT mode (in studs or in planks).
Natural drying takes place in three stages:
- a) Wiping which is the temporary exhibition at the sawmill of soft and resinous wooden boards, freshly sawn.
- b) Stacking, which consists of placing the wood to be dried in the open air; the wood remains in piles until it has become air dry, until it no longer risks damage on wood on wood.
This degree of drying can be assessed by empirical methods, such as sound, but it is worth make better use of scientific processes, such as the electric hygrometer.
- c) Storage which aims to remove the wood from external humidity; the wood is stacked at the shelter in the stores for final drying.
A wood is wiped when it no longer causes a feeling of humidity when the hand passes.
In fact, wiping is an artisanal process and generally lasts only a short time. Good stacking done is actually enough
Stacking of softwoods
When the saw falls, the planks are stacked so as to reduce the surfaces as much as possible. contact. It is a lame stack, on the ground (fig. 1) or against any support (fig. 2)
When the surface of the wood is relatively dry, the boards are mounted in hollow, triangular stacks (fig. 3) or square (fig. 4); this is the stack used by artisan sawmills
The piles are established on construction sites which are large pieces, in scrap wood but healthy, that is to say free from worms, so as not to contaminate the sawn timber.
Why are the sites of large section? They must be thick to avoid any contact of the wood with moist soil. The distance between the bottom plank and the floor should be 30 to 50 cm if possible.
- Care must be taken to ensure that the sites are level.
- Note that sometimes the sites are replaced by masonry dice.
- Woods containing more than their water constitution are stacked in grids (fig. 5).
- The structural parts, planks, bastaings, are piled up by beds (fig. 6).
- The first bed rests on well aligned, well planed sites, spaced at a maximum of 1.50 m.
Why so many precautions? If the sites were not aligned, the wood, when drying, would deform; suppose the middle site lower than the other two; once dry, all the planks would be hollow.
The various beds are separated by soft wooden rods 15 to 20 millimetres thick by 30 millimetres in width, called a pin.
The pins, all of the same thickness, are always placed directly above the work sites to avoid deformations. They allow air circulation between the beds. Thick pins increase the drying speed; thin pins are used to slow drying.
The spacing between the pins varies from 30 to 60 centimetres depending on the thickness of the boards: the more boards are thin, the more the pins must be brought together.
Stacking of hardwoods
We know that hardwoods require slow drying. The stacking of hardwoods is different depending on the wood is cut into plots or planks.
- a) The logs cut into studs are reconstituted on well aligned sites. The first board, the lower back, is removed to give more stability to the stack.
The boards are separated by pins so that the air is renewed well (fig. 7).
Note the arrangement of pins at the end of the boards. Why ? By that a board dries faster at its end than in the middle, and you have seen that drying causes cracks.
The purpose of the pins is therefore to slow down the drying at the end, therefore partially avoid the drying slots.
Also note that the pins generally protrude a few millimetres at the end of the boards (fig. 7); this is certainly so that the drop shadow produced by the pins somewhat slows down the end drying.
For the same purpose, we also nail cleats at the end of the boards. Sometimes in the trays, we push pieces of iron in the shape of an “S” (fig. 7) in order to limit the drying slots.
Finally, the ends of the trays can also be coated with ordinary paint or paint containing emulsion waxes; this process completely removes the slots, saves nails and allows save a lot of time in manpower.
- b) The hardwoods aligned or edged are stacked by plank beds between which one spares space of 2 to 3 centimetres (fig. 8).
13-Fig. 8 Each bed is separated by pins placed directly above the construction sites. The stacks must only contain boards of the same gasoline, of the same thickness and cut at the same time to protect them from heavy rain and the sun, the batteries will be covered with a roof made of scrap boards.
Periodically, the boards can be un-stacked, the wood having stayed in the upper part passing to the lower part; we thus regulates the drying and one can notice in time alterations that may occur.
Wood partially dried in the open air is stored in a store, which must be dry and ventilated, however well closed, on paved or cemented ground; the openings must be oriented, as far as possible possible, so as to receive dry winds blowing in the region.
Hardwoods are stacked and pinned just like on the job site. However, when the woods are perfectly dry, it is sometimes advantageous for thin woods to remove the pins and stack flat. We can thus correct certain deformations occurring during drying.
SOFT AND SOFTWOOD TIMBER is often pricked upright. To facilitate the choice of planks, we can prepare them in such a way as to handle them pages of a book (fig. 9).
As, unfortunately, the ends of the boards are rarely square, their lower end is made to rest on a batten placed on the ground.
The smell from a store must be pleasant. One should never keep worm-eaten wood in store as it will contaminate healthy wood.
Drying requires a lot of care. It includes different operations: wiping, stacking, storage.
The stacking and storage of hardwoods and softwoods are different, the latter having to dry faster.
After natural drying, let's study the different drying acceleration processes that make up this also called artificial drying.
One of the advantageous methods consists in replacing the sap of green wooden logs with water: this is the desiccation, in other words the elimination of the sap.
In particular, its advantage is to eliminate the starch from the sap which would subsequently be eaten by insects and destroyed by fungi: the wood therefore keeps better.
Desiccation is done by floating before flow or by steam after flow.
By float before flow
This process is used especially for light woods, softwoods in particular. It is more difficult to use with heavy woods, oak for example; logs may sink.
Two methods can be used:
- a) Floating with hot water: the sap is soluble in hot water; however the temperature does not must not be too high, otherwise the sap coagulates. This process is little used.
- b) Floating in a river or pond: the wood is immersed in running water for a period of 15 days to 1 month or more, or in standing water for 1 to 2 months. The wood is then stacked for drying.
The water evaporates faster than the sap, which results in a certain acceleration of drying. But the practice shows that there is only an acceleration at the beginning of drying, but more thereafter, on the contrary. The gain of drying time is therefore illusory.
But a softwood log kept by floating has the advantage of being wetter when sawing; it is therefore easier to saw; then just use a saw with a large enough pitch.
Steam after flow: This is called TUBING.
The boards are stacked without pins in a well-closed chamber in masonry called an oven. We introduces steam so that the temperature is around 80 °. Wood softens, fabrics distends and is penetrated by the vapor which carries the severe water. The wood is dried up when the water, leaving the oven, no longer has any color.
The boards are taken out of the oven and exposed to air for 1 to 3 months: this is wiping; we stack them then in stores.
In conclusion, desiccation makes it possible to have woods which dry more quickly at the start and which are rid of a large amount of nutrients that normally attract insects and cause the development of fungi. Thus, they keep better than dried wood naturally. Remember that saving drying time is not appreciable if you want to obtain by this process very dry woods.
Drying With Hot and Humid Air
With desiccation, there is another artificial drying process: drying with hot and humid air.
You have observed that wet soil dries quickly in summer. The reason is very simple: dry air and warm absorbs moisture. On the other hand, if the air is hot and humid, after a storm for example, the soil dries slower. Also, you may have noticed that a detergent can dry very quickly on certain days without sun on the condition that the air is dry, certainly faster than when the air is warmer but strongly wet. It is on these remarks that this drying process is based: the speed of drying depends not only heat, but the hygrometric state of the air.
The woods are stacked on pins in a dryer. A stream of hot, humid air passes between the boards and absorbs moisture from the wood. Thus, the rate of evaporation is tempered by the high humidity of hot air and wood does not tend to split as it would if the air was dry (remember the experience of boards subject to rapid evaporation). In practice, we start the ventilation with air that is almost cold and becomes all the more humid the warmer it becomes; then at as the wood becomes drier, the warm air is humidified less and less. We will only study neither does this process, for you will agree that it is very delicate; it is the work of skilled workers knowing their job thoroughly.
Advantages and disadvantages of different drying
Slow drying can be practiced by all, but it has the disadvantage of immobilizing important capital due to the huge amount of wood remaining on the site; moreover, it cannot provide sufficiently dry wood for use in interior carpentry, furniture.
On the contrary, accelerated drying is used by wood merchants and those who need more wood dry than natural drying allows because, building an expensive oven or dryer, it must be amortized by constant use.
Does wood experience different drying without damage?
Until recent years there has been a justified distrust of artificially dried wood; some had been mistreated in the dryers, had not been monitored during drying by staff insufficiently aware of the technique used, resulting in internal slits which adversely affected the flow solidity of the works and their conservation. The wood was not healthy enough.
BUT THIS CHALLENGE MUST NOW DISAPPEAR. Constant improvements in installations and the training followed by drying technicians and workers, the care and attention with which they are surrounded all drying operations are such that we can now, without second thought, use wood artificially dried.
You now know LE BOIS. You know that the tree is a living being, subject to faults and diseases. There are immense forests in the world which give various species in density, in color, in resistance.
The wood is cut according to different processes which vary with the species and its destination. In addition, in the In most cases, the wood must undergo appropriate drying before being used. The characteristics that have been given, the knowledge you have acquired will allow you to better study the material which was the first used by men.
The following lessons will be devoted to the study of tools for woodworking.
Source – http://www.lescopeaux.asso.fr/Rombauts/PDF/Rombauts_12.pdf
Woodworking is a really fun and productive hobby to get into, but it does come with a steep learning curve. If you are a complete beginner woodworker and want to build something, it is best to start with something simple and then work your way to more complex projects from there as you start to master the skill. In this article, we have compiled 12 easy & fun things to build with wood, ones that don’t require much skill or experience and can be worked on with just a few common tools.
1. Basic Wall Shelf
- Power drill
- Measuring tape
- 1×4 Wood planks
- 2×2 Wood planks
- Paint or Stain
Estimated Time Commitment: 1-2 hours
Making a basic wood shelf is one of the easiest woodworking projects you can do. To begin, start by cutting two 2×2 of appropriate length and position them vertically on the opposing sides of two parallelly placed 1x4s. Secure the setup in place with screws using the power drill.
Afterward, measure the distance between the two positioned 2×2. Cut another 2×2 plank of this length and fit it vertically at the bottom. Over it, place a single 1×4 and screw them for securing in place.
Drill large holes on the top on opposing sides. Afterward, use sandpaper to lightly sand the surface of your shelf and apply paint or a wood stain. Wait for it to dry,and you’re done!
Of course, this is just one way to build a simple wood shelf. You can also make a more standard one with a square opening to put items on or add more levels to it. The design choices at your disposal are endless. Checkout our free woodworking plans for more shelf ideas.
Note: If the cut-out faces of your planks are uneven, simply use sandpaper to level and smoothen them.
2. Sofa Shelf
- Power Drill
- Measuring tape
- Wood Glue
- 1×8 plywood
Estimated Time Commitment: 1 hour
This one is an even easier woodworking project but one that can immensely add to your convenience while sitting on the sofa. First, start by measuring the width of the sofa arm and then cut a 1×8 a widthone inch greater than it.
Now cut two more 1x8s of equal length and glue them vertically to the opposing sides of the primary plank. Once the glue has dried, secure them in place with screws. Sand away any uneven edges then apply the stain. Never again would you need to look for a place for hot beverages while seated on your couch.
3. Oriental Coffee Table
- Power drill
- Measuring tape
- 2×4 wood planks
- 4×4 wood planks
- Paint or stain
- Wood glue
- Masking tape
Estimated Time Commitment: 1-2 hours
Here is one really extraordinary yet undemanding thing to build with wood – an oriental coffee table that will greatly contribute to the overall aesthetic of any room. Start by placing 624-inch 2x4s back to back at levels. Cut two 24 in planks of 4×4 and place them at a right angle to the 2x4s at the extreme sides. Secure the setting in place with screws.
Now cut out two 16-inches 4×4 and place them to fill over the remaining two extreme sides of the table. Cut four 7-inch 4x4s to serve as legs and position them with wood glue in the interior surface at the edges where the longer 4×4 plank meet. Secure ever with screws.
Lightly sand the surface and apply the stain. Alternately, you could paint the surface, using the masking tape as a means to create elaborate painted designs on the tabletop surface.
4. Wall Planter
- 1×8 wood planks (water-resistant)
Estimated Time Commitment: 30 minutes
Whether hanging on the exterior or interior, wall planters can certainly make a fine decoration to anyone’s home. Building one is super easy. Simply cut out two 2x8s of longer length and two 2x8s of shorter length. Screw them in place so that it forms a rectangle.
Now, form an outline of it on a wood plank with the pencil and cut it to serve as the planter’s base. Screw it secure and afterward, drill four holes, each on the top opposing sides of the longer length 2x8s. Attach strings, add dirt and plants,and you’re done.
Note: Driving a screw with a power drill through thin wood can risk causing it to splinter. Consider driving a pilot hole first to avoid such an issue from occurring.
5. Fancy Candle Holders
- Power drill
- 1×8 plywood
- Wood glue
Estimated Time Commitment: 30 minutes
These candle holders can really look wonderful ones done and should make a nice decoration item for your bedroom, living room, or anywhere else. Begin by cutting 4 rectangular pieces of plywood of suitable lengths. Fit them together with wood glue to form a rectangular two open-sided box.
Now, place it over the plywood,draw an outline of the bottom and cut out the base. Secure it to the structure with wood glue. Once dried, sand the surface and apply the stain. You can either opt to place an existing candle inside it or choose to fill up its cavity with hot wax and insert a wick.
- 2×8 wood plank
- Durable nylon rope
Estimated Time Commitment: 30 minutes
If you have a tree in your garden, why not add a swing to it? Making a swing is a straightforward DIY project. To start, first cut a 2×8 of the desired length and drill four large holes near its four corners. Use a sealer to serve as a protective coating for the swing plank against the harshness of the outdoor elements.
Afterward, Insert the nylon rope into one of the holes on the side and take it out from the other.Knot that end with the rest of the rope near the plank swing so that it forms a triangle shape. Repeat on the other side. Now simply tie the end of the nylon ropes to a thick enough tree branch, and you are done.
7. Wine Holder
- 2×8 wood plank
Estimated Time Commitment: 20 minutes
In need of a wine holder? Why not built yourself one?The design of the wine holder mentioned here is uncomplicated; it doesn’t even require you to cut anything! Just take a 2×8 of a suitable length and make large holes into it diagonally.
Afterward, make four smaller holes on the opposing four corners. Once that is done, sand the surface and apply 2-3 even coats of stain. Once it is dried, attach and knot two separate ropes for the purpose of hanging (make sure it is secure). Hang it and in the larger holes, insert the neck of the wine bottles to hold them in place.
8. Pencil Holder
- Power drill
- Engraving tool
- Paint brush
- 4×4 wood plank
Estimated Time Commitment: 1-2 hours
This is a simple DIY that can make for a perfect addition to your work table or can be given as a gift to a fellow colleague. Cut a 4×4 of a suitable length and smoothen off the edges until it forms a squircle. Use a sander for the purpose, if possible,as doing so with sandpaper might really be a highly time-consuming effort.
Now using a pencil and ruler, on the top surface, make a 1×1 grid. Using a drill bit of the appropriate size, make holes at the center of each grid. Once that is done, draw an interesting design on one or all four vertical sides of the block with a pencil. Use the engraver tool to etch them into the wood.
Afterward, lightly sand the surface and apply an even coating of stain. You’re now done!
9. Basket Stand
- Power drill
- 2×2 wood plank
- 2×6 wood plank
- Wood glue
Estimated Time Commitment: 1 hour
A basket stand can make for a perfect decorative item for your outdoors and it is incredibly uncomplicated to make. Cut two 2x2s and two 2x2s of three feet and one foot respectively. Glue the pieces together to make a rectangular frame. Secure firmly with screws.
Now cut a 2×6 that is at least 1 foot 2 inches long and on top of its surface at the center, glue one end of the frame and screw it in place. On the opposing end, make a hole at the center.
Lightly sand the surface of the wooden structure and apply 1-3 coatings of paint. Afterward, using a string tied to the hole, hang a basket or light planter in the middle of it.
10. Welcome Mat
- 1×1 wood planks
Estimated Time Commitment: 3 hours
Make a stellar impression to incoming guests to your house with a beautiful DIY wooden welcome mat. Start by cutting 15-20 1×1 wood planks of suitable size. At two equidistant points from the center and the opposing ends along the length of the planks, drill a hole. Apply a sealer to protect the wood from the elements.
Knot one end of a rope and insert it into one of the holes in the plank. Make another knot at the point the rope comes out from that hole and then insert the remaining rope through the hole on the next plank. Repeat the process with the rest of the remaining planks and then work the same on the other hole on the planks. Once you have completed that, you’re finished with creating your welcome mat.
- Hot glue gun
- Engraver tool
- 6×6 wood planks
Time Commitment Required: 1 hour
Bookends can be a great way to keep your reading collection more organized. Rather than purchase a pair from the market, consider making them yourself. Start by cutting a block 6x6x6 and make a line running diagonally between it. Cut it accordingly afterward.
Then, with your pencil, make designs on the surface of the two triangular blocks and engrave with the engraver tool. Lightly sand the surface and apply a coating or two of stain and wait for it to dry.
To prevent the blocks from sliding, we will need to attach felt to its bottom surface. Using ordinary glue doesn’t provide the best result so consider using a hot glue gun instead.
12. Basic Bench
- Power drill
- 2×4 wood planks
- Wood glue
- Paint or Stain
Time Commitment Required: 2 hours
Need a bench for your lawn, balcony, or terrace? Building it yourself can be both more fun and economical than purchasing one from the market. First, take three 5 feet 2x4s and glue them together so that their 2-inch sides to form the bench seat.
Afterward, on the underside, glue two 12-inch 2×4 at a right angle to the bench seat and at opposing ends equidistant away from the center to serve as support beams. Secure the entire structure in place with screws.
Now cut four 2 feet 2x4s to serve as the bench legs and glue them next to the support beams. Afterward,screw in place. Lightly sand the newly formed bench and then apply 2-3 coatings of paint or wood stain. Use a sealer to further add a layer of protective coating.
Which of these DIY easy woodworking project did you like the most? Have any ideas of your own on interesting things to build with wood? Tell us in the comments below. For more great woodworking tips and ideas, be sure to visit our home page or browse through our excellent list of DIY wood project articles by clicking here.
When it comes to woodworking, there’s an old adage, “you say sawdust like it’s a bad thing.” It’s a mess to clean up, yes, but it would surprise some of you to know that there are some machines designed specifically to create sawdust. While definitely not one of them, a miter saw is a great woodworking tool and an equally ‘messy’ tool as it creates a lot of saw dust.
A miter saw makes cutting wood a lot easier; whether it’s straight cuts, angles or even bevels.
Also known as a chop saw or the mitresaw in Europe, it’s a semi-stationary tool that every aspiring woodworker wants to have. However, a debate as old as the tool itself has been going on between whether a miter is absolutely necessary or not, and is it a good investment? Table saws have less limitations, but are very costly.
Here, we shall address these questions and try to help you make a decision about the miter saw and whether you should invest in it or not.
Miter Saw – What Can It Do?
One of the quickest ways to make cross cuts and miter cuts is with the help of a miter saw. All it takes is placing your piece of wood at an angle and bringing the head down. On the other hand, you can also go with sliding your miter at an angle if it supports it, place your piece of wood down and viola; you have yourself a miter cut.
If you’re someone who likes to make picture frames or holders for your laptops, tablets, custom charging stations or other ‘square’ holders for your gadgets, a miter saw will go a long way in helping you out.
The miter saw has a large blade mounted on its head – perhaps the most prominent part of the power tool – which has a spring behind it that holds it upright. There is a blade guard on the head that retracts automatically as you pull the head down.
This isn't just useful for protecting your hand but also to ensure that the saw dust gets directed away from you. You can use this to collect the dust and use it elsewhere. It is important to keep track of your hands when using the miter saw since it is more than easy to get hurt with the miter saw. That’s why it is considered one of the most dangerous power tools out there.
The best of miter saws has a ‘miter adjuster’ that can rotate the saw head to create angles up to 45 degrees in relation to the fence. You’ll see that the adjuster snaps at commonly used angles such as 10 degrees, 12, 15, 20, 25, 30, and 45. This makes it easier to ensure that you have the right angle.
However, the accuracy mostly depends on how you calibrate the saw when you buy it. You can find instructions on how to calibrate your miter saw in the manual included in the packaging.
The on/off button is on the handle which you have to squeeze tightly to turn the saw on. This is a rather useful application since the tightness means that it also actslike a dead man’s switch. And no, this isn't one of those alerts a website or software sends out after inactivity, but one that immediately shuts off power to the blade in case there is a lack of human operator.
The blade stops rather quickly, which means that in case of an accident, within a few milliseconds the blade is at a slow enough speed so as not to cut your hand but leave behind nothing more than a scrape or scratch. A rather deep scratch, though, so take every precaution you can before using it.
Miter saws are measured by cut capacity and blade diameters. The cut capacity of most miter saws, even compound ones, is about a quarter of an inch less than the side of the blade. Using the wrong-sized blade on a miter is ill-advised, to say the least.
Miter saws usually come in three different sizes:
- 7 ½ inches
- 10 inches and
- 12 inches
In our experience, the 7-inch miter saws are useful only for cutting pieces of wood with a width of up to 6 or 6 ½ inches – which is not much, really. We found that these saws are much more useful for those in the plumbing business, not woodworking.
If you’re looking for a miter saw that can be a good companion for all your woodworking plans, we recommend going for the 12 or 10-inch saws. However, one of the major factors to consider when buying these blades is the cost of blades.
12-inch blades are much more expensive than 10-inch, while 7-inch are the most cost-effective options. However, as mentioned above, 7-inch won’t be of much use to you.
Is It Really Necessary?
Compound miter saws have a head that tilts so that you can use bevels easily, making crosscutting, miter cuts and bevels a lot easier. Most saws you’ll find out there are compound miter saws. However, they have one major limitation; the head size dictates how wide your cuts can be.
To cut pieces of wood longer than the blade’s diameter, you need a sliding miter saw – which is nothing short of expensive. Table saw expensive. These miter saws have a rail on which the head slides to reach farther.
While miters are safe, table saws have more utility.
At the same time, for those of you on a budget, you can make all the cuts a miter can help you make with a simple saw – even bevels! It’ll take you some time, but with a little grit and dedication you’ll get the job done and make the most out of your woodworking plan.
So, while the miter saw is a helpful and powerful tool, it isn’t an absolute necessity. However, we won’t go as far as to say that it’s a luxury either. It’s a tool that if you can afford, you should buy it – but not one that you should go out of your way to buy.
If you think we’re wrong or simply would like to share your thoughts with us, we welcome you to leave a comment below!